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									Concepts 
									Tyres
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												A set of sticky tyres is probably the most cost-effective
												performance mod you can make to your 4x4. Tread patterns
												offer varying degrees of performance in different terrains,
												larger tyres increase clearance,
												broader tyres may or may not offer better floatation, etc.
												Here is the concept of the "whole 4x4". You want your tyres
												to work with everything else. How much articulation, ride
												quality or safety do you sacrifice when you change tread
												pattern or fit really huge tyres? I've recounted some of
												my own experiences below, hoping it will make your decision
												easier. I've also included links to a
												tyre glossary, as well as a
												page describing what you'll see on metric, floatation and
												numeric tyre sidewalls.
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									I drive a Jeep Wrangler TJ which takes me to work every day, but also
									does a fair amount of weekend off-roading, and about 6 trails a year.
									For starters, the Jeep came with Goodyear Wrangler GS-A's as standard issue.
									I found out soon enough though, that they were slightly less than adequate
									for the off-roading I get in to. The pic at right is a Goodyear Wrangler
									GS-A after stripping off my wheel while climbing a rock wall that offered
									fair challenge, but can be crawled up without wheelspin. Also, traction
									with the Goodyears was shocking, although through my ignorance I didn't
									know.
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									So after that escapade I started reading up on tyres. I found out about
									tread designs. There are five basic tread patterns, with a few sub-classes.
									They are generally biased towards excellent performance in one area, but a
									careful choice will give you a tyre that is excellent in your particular
									environment, and generally ok when you stray from it.
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											Highway Terrain | 
										 
										
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												This is an ordinary passenger car tyre and works well on
												tar. Potentially useful in sand and certain types of rock
												because of its non-aggressive tread, they are often seen
												on Freelanders, RAVs, Honda CR-V's, and the like. Beyond
												this, they are essentially useless on the trail. There is
												no real advantage to having them unless you do very little
												or no off-roading.
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											All Terrain | 
										 
										
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												AT's are designed to perform well in a variety of off-road
												conditions. It is a fairly recent innovation that has
												closed the highway/trail gap. The closed tread design
												performs well on rock and sand, and is usually quiet on
												the highway. They are generally decent in rain, snow and
												ice. As you'd guess, they tend to load up in mud but some
												of the AT designs are suprisingly proficient in the goo.
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											Mud Terrain | 
										 
										
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												Mud tyres come in a variety of styles, from the old
												bias-ply mudders that give new meaning to the term road
												noise, to modern radial designs that are suprisingly
												quiet and docile on tar. Apart from their obvious
												attributes in mud, they are generally oustanding in rocks
												and good in deep snow. The flexible radial MT's can also
												be very good in sand, but are at their worst in rain and
												especially on ice.
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											Snow Terrain | 
										 
										
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												A good snow tyre is not an open-lugged design like a mud
												tyre. It is moderately open for self-cleaning, but close
												enough to compress the snow inside the tread and use its
												cohesion to supply traction. Snow tyres also use sipes
												and kerfs. A sub-class are tyres that are rated M&S (Mud
												and Snow), which have some potential as a pseudo AT, but
												dedicated ST's wear quickly on dry roads.
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											Sand Terrain | 
										 
										
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												Sand tyres are designed to compress sand, rather than cut
												through it. Sand driving often requires a reduction in
												pressure to improve floatation, and as sand driving is often
												coupled with driving over rocky terrain, sand tyres tend to
												have flexible and robust sidewalls. These tyres wear fast on
												tar, and are slightly noisier that their HT counterparts,
												although less so than AT's and MT's.
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									Through reading and surfing the 'net I found out about load and speed
									ratings. Every book I found belaboured the difference between cross-ply
									and radial tyres. I believe that this is becoming a bit of a dated debate
									(cross-ply is out of date, and rarely used).
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									The 2" lift I'd fitted to the Jeep is significant as this allows me to fit
									larger than standard tyres to increase both under-axle
									clearance and the Jeep's
									breakover angle. Also, I have this
									inexplicable fixation with mud and water.
									Thus my reading was starting to send me more and more into the direction of
									Mudders. I then started thinking about 
										tyre
										size
									. I'd read that with a 2" lift I could safely go with 31x11.50's.
									Being in South Africa these numbers meant thing to me, and I then figured
									out that these were floatation tyre sizings. I also learnt that a change
									in tyre size would change my overall 
										gear
										ratio
									 from 3.07:1 to 2.7:1, meaning an indicated 10.4km/h increase
									in my speedometer reading at 100km/h.
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									My concern now was three-fold: one, afternoon thundershowers on the
									highveldt are numerous in summer, and MT's don't do that well on wet
									tar. Two, I love snow-skiing, so my tyres had to get me to Tiffendell
									and back safely. I have a sister who's a PRO for the Higlands Water
									Project, so Lesotho ice was also a concern. Everyone I knew, and all
									the books I'd read were extolling the bad manners MTs have on ice.
									Lastly, as I drive down to Mozambique and the northern parts of KwaZulu
									Natal at least four times a year, their performance (or rather, lack of)
									on sand was at issue.
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									Then I discovered siping. Sipes are slits or cuts in the tread blocks that
									allow the blocks to move and grip. Siping usually enhances the wet and icy
									performance of the tyre, and are sometimes added by the manufacturer but
									more often than not added by off-roaders themselves.
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									By reading through predominantly American newsgroups I discovered Super
									Swampers, apparently a good and popular tyre over there. I was specifically
									interested in the Radial TSL's. Unfortunately I couldn't find a local
									distributer, and with my awesome bank balance I was forced into remebering
									the Jeep parts shopper's credo - "the mostest for the leastest". Exit
									importing expensive US tyres and enter the BF Goodrich Radial Mud-Terrain
									T/A.
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									The BFG MTs are obviously good in mud. They have an incredibly
									strong and flexible sidewall (3 plies), and are thus very suited to lower
									tyre pressures and rock crawling. Sand driving cost me a little more fuel
									than normal. While they tend to push quite a lot of sand before them, I
									was unable to bog the TJ in 2 wheel drive without a very heavy foot.
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									Environmentally they're good - the traction provided by the MTs has all but
									elimitated wheel-spin, keeping the trail intact. Lastly, siping on the two
									center lugs vastly improved hard braking in wet weather, although I have yet
									to try them out on ice. They're definitely noisier than HTs and ATs, although
									the Jeep's open top and loud music drowns that out.
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						© 1998-2013 Martin Wittenburg and Michael Wittenburg. All rights reserved. 
					
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